- Vogue Patterns 8719 Mens’ Blazer, Part I
- Vogue 8719 Jacket – Part II: Fixing the Sleeve Cap Ease
- Vogue 8719 Part III – Regatta Blazer!
- Vogue 8719, Part IV – Making Bias Tape
One last note about binding: My instinct was right; the pattern calls for using 1/4″, double-fold bias tape to bind the unfinished seams on the jacket interior, and I thought that seemed rather scant considering one needs to not only catch the binding on both sides, but catch both edges of the jacket fabric cleanly enough that the binding stays put.
I found this to be more or less impossible, at least with my hand-made bias tape and the particular fabric I chose for this jacket, which has a relatively loose weave; even where I managed to stitch neatly through all six layers of fabric, it was so close to the raw seam edges that the warp threads have a tendency to just pull out. Furthermore, 1/4″ is hardly enough to cover various pattern matching notches. I will be reluctantly ripping out all of the 1/4″ binding and replacing it with 3/8″ tape. It’s tempting to try a Hong Kong finish, but I think I’ll stick with the double-fold tape this time around.
Binding woes aside, some decent progress has been made on the jacket. After sewing the front darts and attaching the side panels, it was time to make the pockets. Because the lower front pockets overlap both the dart and the side seam there’s no way to get a complete pattern match, so I matched the most prominent stripe possible; it’s towards the front of the jacket and I think the end result looks fine.
The breast pocket is basically the same, just smaller. I drafted my own, as I was not crazy about the horseshoe shape of the one that came with the pattern. I placed it perpendicular to the grain rather than the slight angle called for in the pattern.
With the pockets in place, it was time to assemble the body of the jacket by stitching the back pieces together:
Then joining the fronts to the back at the shoulders, and joining the sides to the backs. There’s a tiny amount of ease on the back shoulders that was easy to accommodate. With these major pieces assembled, it looks a little bit like a jacket.
Next stop (after replacing the bindings): Sleeves and facings.