Vogue 8719 Part V – Pockets & Body Assembly

Previously:


One last note about binding:  My instinct was right; the pattern calls for using 1/4″, double-fold bias tape to bind the unfinished seams on the jacket interior, and I thought that seemed rather scant considering one needs to not only catch the binding on both sides, but catch both edges of the jacket fabric cleanly enough that the binding stays put.

Photo of 1/4" seam binding

Scant 1/4″ double-fold bias tape binding

I found this to be more or less impossible, at least with my hand-made bias tape and the particular fabric I chose for this jacket, which has a relatively loose weave; even where I managed to stitch neatly through all six layers of fabric, it was so close to the raw seam edges that the warp threads have a tendency to just pull out.  Furthermore, 1/4″ is hardly enough to cover various pattern matching notches.  I will be reluctantly ripping out all of the 1/4″ binding and replacing it with 3/8″ tape.  It’s tempting to try a Hong Kong finish, but I think I’ll stick with the double-fold tape this time around.

Binding woes aside, some decent progress has been made on the jacket.  After sewing the front darts and attaching the side panels, it was time to make the pockets.  Because the lower front pockets overlap both the dart and the side seam there’s no way to get a complete pattern match, so I matched the most prominent stripe possible; it’s towards the front of the jacket and I think the end result looks fine.

Thanks to Thin Man Sewing’s notes on this jacket I ignored the pattern’s vague pocket instructions in favor of Beth Bradley’s patch pocket construction technique as covered in this excellent video.

 

Photo of patch pocket pattern pinned in place

Pocket pattern pinned in place for stripe matching.

Photo of pocket with pressed facing

Pocket with pressed facing

Photo of Pocket facing and lining, stitched and pressed open

Pocket facing and lining, stitched and pressed open

Photo of Patch pocket sewn, notched, and ready to be turned

Patch pocket sewn, notched, and ready to be turned

Photo of pocket facing and lining being slip-stitched closed

Slip-stitching the pocket lining to the facing.

Photo of finished patch pocket.

One finished patch pocket.

Photo of Vogue 8719 - Patch pocket matched to prominent stripe

Left patch pocket, aligned to most prominent whole stripe.

Photo of finished, assembled pocket interior.

Finished, assembled pocket interior.

The breast pocket is basically the same, just smaller.  I drafted my own, as I was not crazy about the horseshoe shape of the one that came with the pattern.  I placed it perpendicular to the grain rather than the slight angle called for in the pattern.

Photo of custom-drafted breast pocket

Custom drafted breast pocket to replace the curious horseshoe-shaped one supplied by the pattern.

With the pockets in place, it was time to assemble the body of the jacket by stitching the back pieces together:

Photo of Vogue 8719 center back seam

The center back seam of the jacket.

Then joining the fronts to the back at the shoulders, and joining the sides to the backs.  There’s a tiny amount of ease on the back shoulders that was easy to accommodate.  With these major pieces assembled, it looks a little bit like a jacket.

Photo of Vogue 8719 front, back and sides assembled

Pockets sewn to fronts and front, back and sides assembled. It’s starting to look like a garment.

Next stop (after replacing the bindings): Sleeves and facings.