Vogue 8719 Part III – Regatta Blazer!

Photo of blazer fabric and boater hatPreviously:

I first began looking at Vogue Patterns’ 8719 because I wanted to make a summer-weight jacket; it’s unlined (except for the sleeves) which I also figured would make it an easier jacket to tackle first time around.  And what better look for spring and summer than a regatta blazer, AKA rowing blazer?

Photo of Vogue 8719 - Jacket Front Laid out on FabricThey are brash and bold, but instantly evoke a certain paradoxically elegant Victorian/Edwardian salad days aesthetic.  You can’t see one without wanting to read Three Men in a Boat (to say nothing of the Dog) while drinking a Pimm’s cup.  Ready-to-wear ones are uncommon (in the United States, at least) and tend to be out of my price range, which made this a good candidate for a DIY project.

For this jacket I’m using a sturdy cotton print – a bit unorthodox perhaps, but lightweight worsted wool in broad, bold stripes is hard to come by, and the price was certainly right; the pattern calls for 2 1/4 yards of 60″ fabric, but I think I bought four because it was cheap and I wanted plenty of extra to work with for stripe matching.

Speaking of which, the pattern helpfully provides markings to indicate the center front and center back lines of the garment, taking seam allowances into account; together with the grain line indicators this made it easy to line up the fabric so the solid blue stripe will be front and center when the jacket is buttoned:

Photo of Vogue 8719 - Center Front Line

By happy coincidence, that arrangement places the front darts in blue stripes as well, so they should be practically invisible.

For the back pieces, I had to decide whether I wanted to match stripes at the shoulders, or try and center the back seam along a stripe, more or less; the center back seam does curve a bit so it will be noticeable no matter what, but ultimately I decided it would be better to preserve the continuity of the pattern across the back and centered it along the red stripe.

Photo of Vogue 8719 - Center Back LineCentering along the blue stripe might have been a bit less visible, but I was also working within the confines of areas I had already cut out of the fabric; I didn’t have room to center the back pieces on the blue.  The center back line mark is slightly angled compared to the grain line, which is why it slants against the stripe here.

One nice thing about such big bold stripes is that matching them symmetrically from piece to piece is dead simple, at least with a rotary cutter; just flip the piece over, line it up, pin it, and cut it:

Photo of Vogue 8719 - Side PIece Flipped for Easy Stripe MatchingI have a few more pieces to cut out before tackling the first fine details on this jacket… the pockets.

Next: Vogue 8719, Part IV – Making Bias Tape