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From time to time I’ll go down a new (and completely impractical) rabbit hole in the pursuit of a particular garment or accessory for myself.  The results may not always find their way into the shop, but they often inform aspects of other things that do, and sometimes I even have to the presence of mind to document them.  They are collected here for posterity.

Finished bottom hem and facing, slipstitched together

Vogue 8719 Part VII – Sleeve Linings and Finishing Details

Previously: Vogue Patterns 8719 Mens’ Blazer, Part I Vogue 8719 Jacket – Part II: Fixing the Sleeve Cap Ease Vogue 8719 Part III – Regatta Blazer! Vogue 8719, Part IV – Making Bias Tape Vogue 8719 Part V – Pockets & Body Assembly Vogue 8719 Part VI – Sleeves and Facings At this point the… [Read More]

Photo of Vogue 8719 Jacket with Sleeves basted in place, Facings and Upper Collar Attached

Vogue 8719 Part VI – Sleeves and Facings

Previously: Vogue Patterns 8719 Mens’ Blazer, Part I Vogue 8719 Jacket – Part II: Fixing the Sleeve Cap Ease Vogue 8719 Part III – Regatta Blazer! Vogue 8719, Part IV – Making Bias Tape Vogue 8719 Part V – Pockets & Body Assembly It takes a while, but once things start coming together, they come… [Read More]

Photo of Vogue 8719 front, back and sides assembled

Vogue 8719 Part V – Pockets & Body Assembly

Previously: Vogue Patterns 8719 Mens’ Blazer, Part I Vogue 8719 Jacket – Part II: Fixing the Sleeve Cap Ease Vogue 8719 Part III – Regatta Blazer! Vogue 8719, Part IV – Making Bias Tape One last note about binding:  My instinct was right; the pattern calls for using 1/4″, double-fold bias tape to bind the… [Read More]

Photo of Cutting the bias tape - technique 1

Vogue 8719, Part IV – Making Bias Tape

Previously: Vogue Patterns 8719 Mens’ Blazer, Part I Vogue 8719 Jacket – Part II: Fixing the Sleeve Cap Ease Vogue 8719 Part III – Regatta Blazer! Sewing relatively complex garments reminds me in some ways of the problem I had with model kits as a kid:  Namely, all of the preparatory steps you have to… [Read More]

What if I Told You Sleeve Ease

Vogue 8719 Jacket – Part II: Fixing the Sleeve Cap Ease

As mentioned at the end of Part I, my next step was to remove the sleeve cap ease from the pattern. There are several how-to tutorials out there and they all boil down to: Measure the circumference of the shoulder end of the sleeve Measure the circumference of the armscye Subtract #2 from #1 to… [Read More]

Photo of finished modified Simplicity 2333 jacket

Custom Steampunk Kilt Jacket

Projects have a way of percolating in my queue for a while before I get traction on them; it wasn’t long after making my first kilt several years ago that I started thinking about making a kilt jacket; Because traditional kilts have a much higher rise than modern trousers, jackets designed specifically for wearing with… [Read More]

Photo of Vogue 8719 Pattern Envelope

Vogue Patterns 8719 Mens’ Blazer, Part I

After a long few months spent building this web site and prepping for a recent string of spring shows, I’m stepping back to spend some time on another personal project. It’s not actually pure indulgence; attempting new garments is the only way to learn skills that will eventually be relevant to things I might make… [Read More]

Murray of Atholl Tartan

Making a Traditional Tartan Kilt

Today is National Tartan Day, a celebration of Scottish heritage which is held on April 6 to commemorate the Declaration of Arbroath, a declaration of Scottish independence submitted to Pope John XXII in 1320. Tartans have been woven in Scotland for centuries, but it wasn’t until the visit of King George IV to Edinburgh in… [Read More]

Photo of Tricorn Hat with Venetian Mask and Hood

The Tricorn Hat and Bauta Project

When you mention tricorn hats in the United States, most people immediately think back to the colonial/revolutionary period of the 18th century; Minutemen, powdered wigs, broadfall breeches, et cetera.  I’ve always liked the dress of that period but have never really pursued it in any costume or living history contexts  because facial hair was very… [Read More]